How To Turn Western Stirrups

On a Western saddle most stirrups naturally hang so they lay flat against the sides of the horse. Stirrups that hang flat against a horse can cause a rider trouble in a number of ways:

• Stirrups that hang flat against the sides of the horse make it difficult for a rider to get a foot into and out of the stirrups when mounting or dismounting.
• While riding, the position of the rider's legs and feet will turn (or try to turn) the stirrups to a right angle from the horse. While a right angle like this is the best position for the stirrups to be in, the rider's hips, knees, and ankle joints can become painfully strained from fighting the natural lay of the stirrups. 

The stirrups in the above photo are hanging almost flat against the side of the horse.
Stirrups that hang flat against the horse can cause a rider trouble in a number of ways.

Turned Stirrups

For the reasons above and others, most Western riders greatly benefit from "turning" their stirrups. When a rider turns their stirrups they train the stirrup fenders and the leathers beneath them to twist outwards, which turns the stirrups outward from the sides of the horse at a right angle.

Turned stirrups offer a rider easier and safer mounting and dismounting, less strain in their legs while riding, and far greater ease in regaining a lost stirrup while riding.

Pictured at right: The stirrup fender and leathers underneath it have been trained to
twist outward. This turns the stirrups outward from the sides of the horse at a right angle.

How To Turn Stirrups

It's easy to train the stirrup fenders and stirrup leathers of a Western saddle to turn outward, thereby turning the stirrups at a right angle to the horse.

1) Start by placing your saddle on a saddle stand or something similar, then take your hand and twist the front of the stirrup toward the back of the saddle (see the yellow arrow in the photo at right).

2) Then take a small pole of some sort (like a broom handle) and run it through the stirrup. Run the pole all the way underneath the saddle to the other side and the opposite stirrup. Twist the front of that stirrup toward the back of the saddle, too, then run the pole through that stirrup like you did the first one. See the photo at right.

The result should be both of your stirrups turned like they would be when you're riding the saddle, with the pole holding them in position. Depending on differences in leather and other factors, it usually takes a couple of days to a week for your stirrups to become trained to stay in this position when you're riding. Even after the stirrups are trained, putting the pole back through your stirrups anytime you're not riding your saddle is good way to keep them in position.

Wetting Stirrup Fenders and Leathers: The Pros

The reason some people wet their stirrup fenders and leathers before training them as described above is that wet leather will train much more quickly. Often, depending on the thickness of the leather and other factors, fenders and leathers that are wetted before being turned can be turned in as little as 24 hours.

To wet your stirrup fenders and underlying leathers, first remove the stirrups. Then wet the fenders and leathers (or just the leathers and the backside of the fenders) with a bucket of water and a wet rag, a garden hose, or submerge them in a bucket of water for a couple of minutes for each side. In all cases, use fresh, clean, water only. Dry the fenders with a clean, dry rag, then apply neutral pH leather conditioner. Then put the stirrups back on and run a pole through the stirrups as described above. Apply a little more leather conditioner after the leather has dried to the point where it's just damp.

Wetting Stirrup Fenders and Leathers: The Cons

The main cons to wetting stirrup leathers are: 1) Water is not good for leather, and 2) Some leather may discolor if it gets wet.

1) The reason water isn't good for leather is simple: When a raw hide is processed and turned into leather, one of the last steps in the process is called ”fat-liquoring.” During this step lubricants that are essential to leather's softness, flexibility, strength, and longevity are infused into the freshly-tanned hide. Later on, if the finished leather product gets wet, water bonds to these lubricants and lifts them to the surface of the leather where they evaporate. After the leather has dried it feels stiffer and isn't as strong because some of the lubricants infused into it have been lost. This is why it's so important to apply conditioner to leather that has gotten wet: The right leather conditioner can go a long way in restoring lost lubricants back into leather, helping to keep it soft, supple, and strong.

2) Some leather may discolor if it gets wet. This is true for a wide variety of leather, but is particularly true of certain types such as roughout. There could be a chance (and pretty much a guarantee if the leather is roughout) that your fenders or leathers could be discolored if you wet them to turn the stirrups.

Pre-Twisted Stirrups

Some saddles are made so that their stirrup leathers are pre-twisted, or pre-turned. Stirrup leathers like this are sometimes called a "Nevada Twist," an "Oregon Twist," a "Northwest Twist," a "Cowboy Twist," a "twist and wrap," or simply "pre-twisted" or "pre-turned." While the exact method varies from one saddle maker to the next, in general a Western saddle with pre-twisted stirrups has had the stirrup leathers underneath the fender twisted then wrapped to hold their position. This is very effective for turning the stirrups outward.

Pictured at right: A ranch saddle with pre-twisted stirrups. Note that the stirrup leathers beneath the fender have been twisted in order to turn the stirrup outward, then wrapped to hold the position.